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SCARPA INSTINCT VS - ORANGE/BLACK

Regular Price: £135.00

Special Price £115.00

Quick Overview

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Details

Scarpa Instinct VS Rock Climbing Shoe

The Instinct Velcro is a variation on the popular Instinct Lace Up and Slipper, and is just as Specialist in character. While the toe box retains the same platform as both the lace-up and the slipper, it offers greater stiffness than the slipper and keeps your toes in a more bunched position, similar to the lace-up. 

The elasticated cuff and Velcro strap provide a snug, sock like fit and it really feels like it's joined to your foot! The XS Edge 2 rubber gives a super precise feel and a distinctive fit on small holds. The toe box has a ribbed pad of rubber on top to help with those tricky toe hook moves and the heel is very neat indeed - perfect for marginal hooks in fact. 

Having tested a prototype of these in recent months we can highly recommend them, and if you already like either of the previous Instincts, you are going to love them. On steep, technical ground you will be hard pushed to find a better performing shoe. Rubber: 3.5mm Vibram XS Edge 2 

Fit advice: 
The Instinct Velcro has a fairly broad fit with a medium volume toe box. The unlined synthetic uppers are mostly covered in rubber so don't give too much. We would advise dropping one Euro size, or perhaps one and a half Euro sizes from your normal shoe size for a really snug fit.

Staff Review - Rich

Fit

Having interchangeably worn Sportiva Solutions/5.10 Dragons/5.10 Teams for a few years, the Scarpa Instinct VS was a revelation in terms of comfort and performance coming together in near perfect harmony.

I'd always assumed I had a rather narrow foot shape but had just got used to crushing my little toes in to soft/narrow toe-down shoes in search of peak bouldering performance. The Instinct VS is definitely suited to a wider foot shape and the straight asymmetric profile means you can squeeze into them 2 sizes down from street size without your toes becoming hideously bent into an unnatural position. They are very comfortable 1 street shoe size down from your normal shoe size.

In Practice

They are very stiff to start off with which means amazing on small sharp edges but not so good for padding up gritstone slabs.

I live 10 minutes from Parisella's cave, so this is where they have been given a severe work out and they are by far the best shoe for toehooking I have ever used thanks to a large but crucially soft/thin toe rubber coverage. The extra width in the toe-box means your toes can sit next to each other instead of bunching up and this means a wider/flatter surface with which to hook with. The stiff rubber isn't ideal on super polished slick rock but this does improve once they have been worn down after a few months.

The heel has a bit of space either side of the heel but it sits right in the bottom of it, with the orange tensioning band keeping the heel in place, allowing you to pull as hard as you like without the danger of it peeling off the foot. I found the stiffer sole and rubber over the toes made it very comfortable for locking into heel-toe cams (almost too good on occasions, so you have to be careful to take it out in time if your hands are about to give up!)

I found the extra stiffness great for standing on smaller holds on more vertical terrain and it gives it a nice versatility over all angles. It is most definitely not just yet another super soft toe down shoe and has a bit more to it.

Summary

The Instinct VS is a superb all round toe down shoe suited to a broader foot. It is deceptively comfortable despite it's appearance and is great for bouldering and sport climbing but would work just as well for trad if fitted a bit larger due to it's stiffness and non aggressive profile.

An alternative shoe to look at would be the Sportiva Solution for something a bit softer/narrower.

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